Bite into "playful ’cue" at Fort Lauderdale’s Red Cow

The neon “Meat” sign with the flashing “M” above the smoker not-so-subtly suggests that you “eat” at Red Cow. The industrial-hip joint has wooden tables, red chairs and cartoons projected on a back wall. Meats include brisket, ribs, pulled rotisserie chicken and smoked turkey breast.

Owner Elliot Wolf grew up in Coral Gables in a family of specialty foods importers. After working at Houston’s, he opened Coconuts and G&B Oyster Bar in Fort Lauderdale. Three months ago he opened the Red Cow with Texan-born chef Steve Shockey, who slow-cooks the meats in a Mesquite brand smoker over hickory and cherry wood.

Start with skillet cornbread, smoked fish dip or steamed and grilled artichoke halves. There’s also a “jerk-cuterie” plate of jalapeño-Cheddar sausage, “pork-strami” made from brined and smoked shoulder, pimento cheese with toast, pickled okra and strips of beef, duck and pork jerky seasoned with brown sugar and bourbon upright in a mason jar.

Sandwiches include the Smoking Gun (12-hour smoked brisket with crispy onions), Gobbler Club (apple wood smoked turkey with bacon jam) and North Carolina-style pulled pork with slaw and a hush puppy.

Go whole hog and get American Wagyu beef ribs charred in sweet tomato-pomegranate sauce or dry-rubbed, beer-steamed pork spare ribs with bacon mashed potatoes.

For sides, pick from fried Brussels sprouts, deviled eggs, sweet potato grits and cauliflower mash.

Drink dessert in a tequila-spiked root beer float.