Vic and Angelo’s
Polished, Italian-American eats on SoBe
Vic and Angelo's
150 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach
The goods: Palm Beach-based Vic and Angelo’s opened its first Miami location last week, bringing coal-fired pizza to South Beach. A collaboration between David Manero Restaurants and mega yachting entrepreneur John Rosatti, the Italian-American spot takes over the former DeVito South Beach space on Ocean Drive.
Ambience: Not much has changed from the DeVito décor. Red Venetian chandeliers, white leather chairs, brick walls and mahogany floors lends a modern Sopranos-meets-Rat Pack vibe.
The grub: Italian-American comfort food. Pizzas made with water imported from New York, huge bowls of pasta and massive steaks. Starters average $16 and most mains (which are big enough to share) top out at $24. Expect to pay upwards of $40 for a steak.
A gratis basket of herb-flecked focaccia sticks hits the table to start. From there, enjoy the burrata salad or the 11-ounce meatball in a pool of San Marzano tomato sauce. House-made pastas include pear and four cheese-stuffed Tortelloni and fat papardelle noodles bathed in a mixed-mushroom gravy. The ten thin-crust pizzas are fired at 650 to 750 degrees for a blistery crust then topped with ingredients like smoked mozzarella, sausage and truffle cream laced with wild mushrooms. Steaks include a hearty 14oz New York Strip and a Flintstones-esque 22-ounce veal chop. Fish options include roasted seabass and Snake River Trout.
If you have room for dessert, skip the massive cones of cotton candy and opt for the homemade tiramisu, a generous slice of this homey classic.
The verdict: Big portions of Italian-American comfort food aim to please in a polished, Rat Pack-esque atmosphere.
- Campania plants Southern Italian flag in Miami's Design District
- La Savina in the Mondrian puts a little Ibiza in South Beach
- Tacos and more at Miami Beach's bodacious Bodega
- Bistro Bal Harbour weaves Latin influences into modern American cooking
- 27 Restaurant serving eclectic home cooking, stylish cocktails in Miami Beach
- Jean-Georges turns to Latino cooking at new Matador Room in Miami Beach
- Michelle Bernstein's Seagrape serves upscale elegance in new Thompson Hotel
- Say 'Opa!' to new Cleo restaurant in the Redbury Hotel in Miami Beach
- Brasserie Central opens its French doors at Merrick Park in Coral Gables
- Stripsteak at the Fontainebleau is the latest in Michael Mina's South Florida mini-empire