The big review: Two Chefs Too ***
By Enrique Fernandez
Poised on the shore near the bridge to posh Bay Harbor Islands, the one-time Mark's Place space fell on hard times after Mark Militello moved out a dozen years ago. This time, however, Two Chefs Too has backup.
That would be chef-owner Jan Jorgensen, who shuttles between the new North Miami location and his flagship Two Chefs in South Miami. Classically trained, Jorgensen has never gone in for froufrou.
The two restaurants share menu staples such as his coq au vin and signature barbecue meatloaf. It's a fine meatloaf, really, moist and flavorful, wrapped in bacon.
Not that the menu shies from taking the haute road. A sauté of escargot appetizer with smoked duck is served in a puff pastry shell. The tartare of big-eye tuna is served atop wheat strips resembling tortilla chips and the tuna is redolent of Peruvian ají amarillo and truffle oil.
Perfectly grilled baby artichokes and diver scallops set each other off beautifully, but the mealy tasting roasted roma tomatoes in that appetizer don't come off as well. I'm a sucker for anything on a menu that says "our way" so I had to try the Caesar salad: nice, big chunks of romaine topped with broad, thin slices of Parmigiano-Reggiano and, instead of croutons, torn pieces of sourdough toast on the side.
Seafood entrees are enticing, but meats are even more so. Veal sweetbreads were plump and flavorful; roast duckling, juicy under a crackling crust. Perigord sauce on the steak was more of a glaze that emphasized the contrast between the crusty exterior and medium-rare center.
Brandied peach soufflé is wonderful, and dribbling it with crème anglaise and caramel, as the waitress suggested, is the right thing to do. As a meal-ending alternative, Two Chefs Too offers a cheese menu. Seduced by the name, I chose a brie-like Vermont cheese called Constant Bliss that was pure tenderness with a mild mushroom aroma.
The minimally decorated dining room isn't crowded, at least not yet. Time (and the economy) will tell, but of all the restaurants that have occupied this spot since Mark's Place, Jorgensen's has the best shot at success.
Two Chefs Too, 2288 NE 123rd St., North Miami; 305-895-5155; rating: *** (very good); hours: lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Sat.; dinner 5:30-10 p.m., Mon.-Thurs., until 10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; prices: starters $8-$15, entrees $19-$34, desserts $7.50-$10; full bar; corkage $15; half-price wine specials on Mondays; free parking. AX, DN, DS, VS, MC.
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The best that I've had in a very long time. I'm glad I chose this restaurant for my 65th birthday party.
Posted by: shedave on Thu, 2008-03-27 15:31