Trata Greek Taverna

Lamb chops, lemon potatoes and vegetables.

 

Rochelle Koff3/3/2010

The new Trata Greek Taverna on Las Olas Boulevard isn't the typical belly-dancing, confetti-tossing, plate-breaking Mediterranean restaurant. Its spell is more subtle, cast by a charming staff led by co-owner Dimitrios “Jimmy the Greek” Tsiakanikas, who warmly greets patrons with a "Welcome home." Open five weeks, Trata is in the former Teal Bistro Americana space, a cozy, romantic spot that's largely unchanged except for lots of pictures of Greece. There's a classy bar area and outdoor seating -- it's a fun destination whether you're here for a romantic evening or a pals' night out.

What Worked

• Absolutely outrageous taramosalata, a rich spread made with carp roe
• Heavenly firm, but not chewy baby calamari grilled until slightly charred, sliced into wide, thin rings and served with a lemony, oregano-scented sauce
• Dramatic flaming saganaki  cheese- a mild sheep's cheese kefalograviera doused with brandy and set afire
• A soup special of baby lima beans in a deep dark broth with a hint of garlic
• Perfectly cooked red snapper in a lovely, light sauce of lemon, garlic, olive oil and oregano
• Tender, well-seasoned grilled lamb chops served with lemon potatoes and a roasted zucchini-squash medley
• Succulent and juicy grilled pork tenderloin kebab, served off the skewer and accompanied by rice and a side of your choice
• Rustic wild greens, Swiss chard and dandelion greens sautéed with onions and garlic
• Gyros with tasty crisp fries
• Simple and delicious tangy Greek yogurt topped with orange slices caramelized with a touch of cinnamon, cloves and honey and then dusted with crumbled walnuts
• Baklava
• Rice pudding studded with raisins  and fragrant of vanilla, cinnamon and oranges
• A small, but varied wine list with a selection of 20 red and white Greek choices

What Didn’t Work

• Chewy shrimp in Trata's spitiko (think Greek surf- and-turf)
• Braised beef baby short ribs served a little fatty and lacking oomph