Three Stars for FlashBack

Manager Olga Cotzamanoglou shows off the popular Blackened Mahi Salad $10.99.

 

Rochelle Koff8/4/2010

Blueberry pancakes or a beer-simmered hot dog at 3am, moussaka as well as matzoh ball soup, a warm welcome whether you're dining alone or bringing the whole family -- ah, the joys of the 24-hour diner. A rarity in Southwest Broward, Davie's FlashBack Diner opened on Davie Road in October, an outpost of the Hallandale Beach classic in the former home of the last Lum's in the country. You'll find a few gum-smacking waitresses but also sweet college-age servers -- and no one called us "‘hon." As for the extensive menu, FlashBack has done some forward thinking. Along with standards like omelets, burgers and BLTs, there's a full low-carb menu, a long list of salads and dishes like tilapia FranÇaise and Cajun blackened rib-eye. The problem is making a decision. Dinners are a deal. The most expensive is $17.99, and they include soup or salad, a vegetable or coleslaw, dessert and a large brioche roll.

Ambience: Owner Toula Amanna totally renovated the space, leaving just a few remnants of the once-popular chain restaurant, such as vintage pictures and dishes like Lum's famed Ollieburger. FlashBack has the requisite counter seating, display case filled with sweets and pictures of legendary stars like Lucille Ball, Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe. But forget table-side juke-boxes. Instead, there are small flat-screen TVs at all the large booths and free Wi-Fi. On Friday and Saturday nights, there's karaoke in the sprawling, covered patio.

What Worked

• A huge plateful of crunchy, thickly battered onion rings served with honey-mustard and barbecue dipping sauces
• The delicious Ollie burger made with a blend of 23 seasonings that all jive in a fat, juicy patty topped with tomatoes and lettuce
• Homey mac and cheese in a creamy Velveeta sauce topped with melted Cheddar
• A terrific Johnny Carson -- hot corned beef on rye
• A triple decker John Wayne - a hamburger club
• A well-stacked Bridget Bardot roast beef French dip
• A Black & Bleu Salad big enough to feed two
• Light, flaky and delicious blackened, hand-size fillet of mahi mahi
• Somewhat bland, but well-stocked matzoh ball soup with silky egg noodles, chunks of chicken and fresh carrots
• Basic meatloaf with brown gravy and mashed potatoes
• Impressive Greek moussaka -- a tall square layered with thinly sliced eggplant and well-seasoned ground beef in a rich tomato sauce, topped with bechamel sauce and a dusting of feta
• A refreshing rice pudding
• House-made apple strudel with a light crust
• A mammoth slice of Snowy King of Chocolate Beast Cake with ice cream, hot fudge and whipped cream 
Banana splits 
New York cheesecake
• A thick, scrumptious milkshake served in an oversized martini glass with tufts of whipped cream