A sweet taste of France on Brickell
Vincent Benoliel is a real Frenchman who eats quiche and drives a tiny pink Smart car to shuttle between his two Miami area café-bakeries.
The Paris native learned to cook as a teen from his grand-mere at his grandparents’ restaurant, and then worked in a brasserie. He spent many family vacations in Miami, and moved here seven years ago.
Over Saturday brunch at his new Brickell place, I sampled chef Alain Dumas’ morel mushroom omelet, French toast and steak tartare followed by several macarons. The miniature merengue cookies are the new dessert darling, and Benoliel sells them online and in a boutique in his Coral Gables cafe.
The name for the sweet comes from the Italian maccarone, as they were first made with almond paste. In the 16th century, the pastry chefs of Catherine de’Medici brought them to France, where they were refined using powdered sugar, almond flour and egg whites. European Jews added coconut for an unleavened Passover sweet.
In 1930, French patissier Pierre Desfontaines hit on sandwiching two together with ganache to create the double-decker. They are crunchy, chewy and creamy in one bite, and melt lusciously on the tongue. Flavors to try here are raspberry, rose petal, pistachio, hazelnut, vanilla, coconut and chocolate. Ooh la la!
Linda Bladholm’s latest book is “Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.”
The French version is best left to the experts, but these are easy to make at home.
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 egg white, whipped
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract
1 (14-ounce) package flaked coconut
Heat oven to 325 degrees. Line baking sheets with greased foil and dust lightly in flour. In a bowl, combine condensed milk, egg white, extracts and coconut; mix well. Drop by rounded teaspoonfuls onto the baking sheets; slightly flatten each mound with a spoon. Bake 15 to 17 minutes or until lightly browned at the edges. Remove immediately from the sheets so they don’t stick and cool on wire racks. Makes about 2 dozen cookies.
Source: Adapted from allrecipes.com
Per cookie: 132 calories (49 percent from fat), 7.5 g fat (6.1 g saturated, 0.8 g monounsaturated), 7.6 mg cholesterol, 2.5 g protein, 14.7 g carbohydrates, 1.5 g fiber, 34 mg sodium.
If you go
What: Le Boudoir
Address: 186 SE 12th Ter., Miami
Contact: 305-372-2333, 800-655-5068, leboudoirmiami.com
Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday
Prices: Breakfast $4.95-$16.50, sandwiches $6.10-$12.50, pastries $5.95, macarons $1.95 each, $23.40 a dozen.
FYI: The second location is at 169 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, 305-442-0803. Macarons can be ordered online for pickup or Miami delivery.
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