Suviche

 

Sushi by way of Peru arrives in Brickell

suviche

Sara Liss

The goods: Sushi by way of Peru is the star at new downtown raw fish haven Suviche. Owner Aliosha Stern is from Mexico but he's got a passion for the seafood delicacies of Lima and Tokyo as evidenced by the ambitious menu of maki, ceviche and Peruvian classics.

Ambience: The narrow space is tucked away amid towering condo buildings on a side street off Mary Brickell Village. An outdoor patio is in the works, but for now you can dine indoors at the sleek sushi bar or at one of the handful of tables that occupy the polished concrete spot.

The grub: Peruvian-Japanese fusion focusing on sushi and ceviche along with a few cooked items. Prices are modest and most maki rolls and ceviches are offered as half orders, allowing for a wallet-friendly small-plate experience. Ceviches and tiraditos can be had for $7-$9, mains top out at $12 and sushi rolls range from $5 to $11.

A small bowl of salted corn kernels (a traditional Peruvian snack) hits the table as soon as you sit down. Follow up with one of a half-dozen ceviches like the tangy Suviche of swai (striped catfish) bathed in a cloudy broth of lime juice, celery, habanero pepper and a touch of mayo. Fat Peruvian corn kernels and a soft slice of sweet potato round out the chilly stew. There are 18 maki rolls, most with Latin and Caribbean touches like the jalapeno roll of white fish and avocado topped with slivers of the namesake chile and the tropical roll, a summery mix of shrimp, mango and coconut topped with eel sauce.

Cooked options skew down-home Peruvian with dishes like lomo saltado spring rolls (with stir-fried beef), tacu tacu (mashed beans and rice topped with seafood and spicy creole sauce) and aji de gallina (shredded chicken with diced potatoes slathered in a pepper cream sauce). There's no liquor license yet, so for now pair the cured fish with a chicha morada, a Peruvian purple corn drink.

Verdict: Reasonable prices make this tiny Latin-Japanese raw fish den a destination on the busy Brickell dining scene.

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