We're off to Sushi Blues and not the least bit worried about Picky Peter, our friend who not only doesn't eat sushi but doesn't much care for fish. He's Swiss. What can you do?

But this is no typical sushi bar marinating steak and chicken teriyaki as its only nod to the landlubber set. Here Peter can have a rack of lamb or a filet mignon with mixed mushrooms.

What's more, most of the patrons dress like adults out for dinner and dancing rather than kids out for a ballgame, and Peter, being European, finds that refreshing.

That and the pace of the place. There's no rushing to turn tables here. Owners Kenny and Junko Maslak work the room like they're hosting a soirée at their home. Sure, we see some people eat and go, but most of us are in for the evening.

We order a round of sake -- there's a good selection, hot and cold -- and start on some starters: fried gyozas for Peter, more creative fare for the rest of us: white tuna tataki with fresh jalapeño slices and ''hot hot calamari.'' Not a squider, you say? The same dish is prepared with chicken as well. Don't eat meat at all? Also comes in the trendy tofu version.

And what's this? Peter's chopsticks darting at the tataki? ''It's good,'' he says, his eyes bulging slightly when the jalapeño kicks in.

Next round we try the rack of lamb special (a chop for everyone), salmon carpaccio (exactly what you're thinking, capers and all) and coconut shrimp with seven-pepper sauce.

This can go on all night, something different every round. We like to think of ourselves as semi-regulars, but we've never made it through the whole menu, and there's always a list of specials.

If that's all there was, it would be more than enough for a hearty recommendation. Indeed, one colleague tells me she likes it best on Monday and Tuesday nights when there's no musical distraction from dinner and conversation.

But we like the nightlife. We want to boogie. The trick is to sit down around 8 to get a jump on dinner before the band cranks up an hour later. Usually Kenny Maslak -- Kenny Millions on stage -- plays with the house band. Sometimes it's Isaac and Valerie Woods, who've been rocking the house every other Friday lately. Sometimes it's a surprise. It's always fun.

Junko Maslak sounds a bit nervous when I telephone to set up a photo. She's thinking our review is coming too soon after their August move to a roomy, trés chic space on Harrison Street from cramped Bohemian quarters on Young Circle. With a few newbies on the staff and old hands working in an unfamiliar kitchen, she's afraid something might have been forgotten, a dish not prepared exactly right.

She needn't worry. Like Kenny Millions playing sax while handling the bass drum with his right foot and the high hat with his left, no one misses a beat.