Sugar Reef

 

3 stars for an ocean view & "excellent" food at Sugar Reef

Sugar Reef

Rochelle Koff

Breakfast at the beach is one of the easiest ways to feel like you’re on vacation without leaving South Florida, and Sugar Reef on Hollywood beach is one of our favorite places to catch a delicious omelet along with a great view. Right on the Broadwalk, the doors are open to the sea breezes, and outdoor tables provide prime people-watching.

Chef Patrick Farnault and his wife, Robin Seger, opened the place 17 years ago aiming to go beyond typical beach fare, and the prices reflect that. It’s strictly wine and beer, but there’s a respectable list of about 100 wines with several under $40. By-the-glass choices are limited, but half-bottles are available. A Parisian who worked as a yacht chef and restaurant manager in the islands, Farnault shows his French and Caribbean background in dishes ranging from escargot and tart tatin to jerk shrimp, tropical fish stew and steamed mussels with green curry and coconut milk. He rounds out the menu with Mediterranean and Asian-style dishes, often inspired by the couple’s travels.

Ambience: Decorated in tropical hues, the restaurant has a cozy charm whether you stop by for breakfast on weekends or dinner any night. It’s one of Broward’s few oceanfront restaurants worth a visit for the food as well as the setting, making it a top choice for out-of-town visitors or a romantic dinner.

What Worked

  • An interpretation of Vietnamese soup pho made with shrimp, chicken and peanuts
  • Grilled endive covered with a creamy blue cheese and a drizzle of balsamic vinaigrette
  • Garlicky calamari
  • A fresh beet salad with goat cheese, endive and a kicky mustard vinaigrette
  • Irresistible burrata with its lush creamy filling, served on a bed of arugula with a few spears of grilled asparagus enhanced by a lemony dressing
  • Chunks of cucumber filled with a spicy red bell pepper sauce then topped with a scallop and a dab of mango salsa
  • Perfectly cooked pan-seared scallops with golden outer crusts
  • Simply done blackened mahi-mahi
  • Jamaican-style pork loin - buttery, tender medallions marinated in jerk spices, grilled, then finished in the oven, delivering vibrant flavor without fiery heat
  • A scrumptious tart tatin with a light puff-pastry crust, served warm with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce
  • A heavenly crème brûlée with a hint of pears
  • Chakchouka, a wonderful Middle Eastern dish that melds sautéed tomatoes, onions and roasted bell peppers with cumin, garlic and other spices and is served with the choice of a scrambled egg on the side or a raw egg cracked over the veggies

 

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