Steak 954 ***1/2

Sizzling theatrical surf and turf in Fort Lauderdale's latest luxury resort.

954 Steak chef Jason Smith with a lobster and crab coconut ceviche, $14. Smith is the chef at the W Hotel's new restaurant on A1A on Fort Lauderdale Beach. Photo: Charles Trainor Jr.

By Rochelle Koff

Sizzling Steak 954 is not your typical meat market. It's the first South Florida venture for restaurateur Stephen Starr, whose culinary empire includes Buddakan and Morimoto in Philadelphia and New York City.

Ambiance

The 240-seat restaurant is located in the extravagant W, the destination of the moment in Fort Lauderdale and the latest luxury resort on the beach. The atmosphere is South Beach chic without the pretensions or bad service. The staff here is excellent, well-trained and as gorgeous as the clientele.

What worked

Starters: Refreshing, bracing ceviche of Maine lobster and Alaskan King crab in mixed citrus juices with paper-thin red onions, peppers and jalapeños; diced bigeye tuna mixed with a kicky chipotle aioli and topped with shredded iceberg lettuce and fois gras-smeared taco shells; and addictive Kobe sliders on mini brioche buns.
The Main Event: Starr’s signature $100 Kobe, foie gras and black truffle cheese steak (forget the Cheez Whiz); a $245, 36-ounce Kobe porterhouse that easily feeds two or three; and 28-day aged buttery tender, simply seasoned cuts of beef.
The Main Event Part 2: A 2 ½-pound, poached Maine lobster, removed from its shell so it's easy to savor each bite of the sweet, succulent meat. A whole, pan-roasted branzino is moist and flaky.
The Side Show: Family-style creamed spinach with a hint of nutmeg and seven types of potatoes, including a decadent truffle potato gratin and hash brown soufflé.

Desserts
A sweet success all around, including sticky toffee pudding, delicate baked Alaska with prosecco and a luscious pineapple soufflé with sambuca ice cream.

Steak 954, W Fort Lauderdale, 401 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-414-8333; 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Prices: Raw bar and seafood cocktails $12-$27, appetizers $16-$19, soup and salad $10-$14, most entrees $26-$65 (Kobe $80-$245), sides $8-$9, desserts $8-$10.

FYI: Full bar; corkage $25 per bottle. Metered street and lot parking; $5 valet with validation.