Smith & Wollensky, which opened at the old South Pointe Seafood House locale after an extensive renovation about a year ago, is an elegant space surrounded by parkland and water - it's at the tip of Government Cut, the southernmost point in South Beach.

The wood floors, Italian marble everywhere, rich cream walls and beautiful lamps offer a feel of comfortable elegance.

But the moment you step in, you are overtaken by the primitive memory of meat on a hot fire. And an overwhelming desire to have a big, satisfying, bloody piece. Smith & Wollensky is all about meat.

Steaks - and a few nonbeef entrees - are called, simply, ``meat classics,'' and they are exactly that. You can choose from among filet mignon in black pepper sauce; sirloin; prime rib; rib steak; New York sirloin; a veal chop; and lamb chops, all priced at $29.75. Of course, we are talking prime meat here - even better, aged prime meat. Aging in special refrigerators has a drying effect on the meat, allowing for more density, better texture, and more tenderness.

Smith & Wollensky does its own meat aging and butchering, so the cuts are aged just the right number of days, each variety for a different period of time. The cooking system is simple, yet it requires a master at the ovens. Chef Bob Mignola is that master, the man in command of a series of ovens and broilers maintained at different, but exclusively high, temperatures. Meat is first seared on both sides, then moved from one place in the oven to another, or to another oven at another temperature altogether.

The results can be stunning. The filet is almost four inches thick, juicy inside, rare pink, delicious and gorgeously charred on the outside. tender enough to barely require a knife. Rib steak is serious business, almost too vast for the dinner plate and more than two-inches thick. Both arrived cooked to perfection, at exactly the point of doneness ordered.

Another wonderful dish is crackling pork shank ($23.50), unique in its presentation. It is served whole, cooked so its skin is crisp and crunchy, but the interior juicy and luscious in its intense flavor.

Fish and chicken, too

To acknowledge the water's edge, Smith & Wollensky also serves lobster, broiled or steamed at $19.50 a pound; tuna; salmon; and a fish of the day ($21.50 to $25.50). All can be broiled or sauteed. There also is roast chicken in a lemon and pepper sauce for $18.50.

All accompanying dishes are a la carte ($8.50), big generous portions meant to be shared: mashed potatoes, onion rings, the best creamed spinach this side of Popeye, and delicious steak fries, cut thick with skins on.

The menu is universally simple. There are four salads ($6.75 to $8.75) listed: Caesar; tomato and onion; the Wollensky (lettuce, crisp squares of potatoes, bacon and tomatoes with a creamy garlic dressing); and a green salad made up of a variety of lettuces, all fresh and crisp, big enough for two.

Other starters ($9.50 to $13.75) include lobster or crab meat or shrimp cocktail; crab cakes and an intriguingly named salmon pastrami.

Service, which could be deplorable when Smith & Wollensky first opened, has hit its stride and is now professional, efficient and very pleasant.

Dessert is difficult to fit in, but save some room; they are very good. Chocolate creme brulee is slithery-smooth, and pecan pie is the traditional version made better by some vanilla ice cream.