Johnny Vinczencz is donning two toque hats these days. He's still manning the helm at Johnny V, a chic, fine-dining destination in the heart of posh Las Olas Boulevard, where devotees fawn over dishes like his signature wild mushroom pancake "short stack" or a surf-and-turf of buffalo and lobster tail.

And Vinczencz has launched Smith & Jones , just six blocks down the road. It's an upscale sports bar , grill and live music venue cooking up burgers, 'good ol' boy pot roast and gravy" or "real deal" Philly steaks with Cheez Whiz.

Same chef, same street, but quite different experiences. Which one would you expect to be slammed on a Thursday night?

Smith & Jones has been the hot spot since opening in November, drawing crowds willing to shell out $15 or $20 for creative comfort food paired with a cold brew or a stiff drink. Many stay to hear bands that perform four nights a week. With O'Hara's Jazz & Blues Caf� gone, 200-seat Smith & Jones has filled a niche as late-night gathering spot on Las Olas -- with higher culinary expectations.

Vinczencz has been a foodie favorite since the mid-'90s, when he tantalized at Maxaluna and Max's Grille in Boca Raton, Astor Place in Miami Beach and De La Tierra at Sundy House in Delray Beach before moving to Johnny V in Fort Lauderdale.

Over the years, the Missouri-born Vinczencz married his first love, smoke and barbecue, with his passion for the Latin and islandy flavors of South Florida, earning him the nickname Caribbean Cowboy. But Vinczencz suffered a blow in '07 with a failed attempt at another restaurant at the Hotel Astor.

Vinczencz says the time is right for Smith & Jones -- so titled for the quintessential American names -- with its lower-priced menu and casual atmosphere. The decor is pubby, with lots of wood, brick and a cathedral ceiling. At night, it's lively, sometimes loud, like a boisterous neighborhood hangout. But the food surpasses what you're going to get at a typical club.

Start with a delicious, thin crisp flatbread made with organic dough. Our favorite is topped with lightly saut�ed spinach, portobello mushrooms and delicate goat cheese with a hint of slightly sweet balsamic syrup. Another fun choice layers slices of juicy tomatoes, silky mozzarella and fresh basil atop an earthy pesto spread.

There are several tempting salads. We picked the house, a plate of crisp, cool mixed greens, chopped tomatoes, eggs, Applewood bacon, cucumbers and red onion dressed in a rich blue cheese (or your choice).

If you're game for gator, Vinczencz breads diced alligator tail with onions, peppers, and cilantro, his take on crab cakes. They're flavorful but plated with whole grain mustard sauce that seemed overly aggressive, even for gator.

A friend who has eaten her share of deli raved that Smith & Jones ' pastrami sandwich was the best, the meat extremely moist, with an extra smoky zing, prepared sous-vide -- slow-cooked for 18 hours -- and heaped on rye.

Vinczencz seasons his dolphin with a bunch of spices he dubs "barbecue love" but we most like the Key lime sauce. His tomato-based Kansas City sauce is slathered on terrifically tender, slow-cooked, hickory-scented, nicely charred baby backs.

Barbecue fans will also find pork sliders, brisket and smoked beef sausage flown in from the Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas.

The 12-ounce New York strip is quite good, the most expensive dish at $22.95, served with portobellos, smashed potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a splash of red wine vinaigrette.

Spud fans will want to sample the tangy house-made potato chips -- a staffer spends about four hours a day making the chips and fries. And mac-and-cheese, the ubiquitous comfort food, is ultra cheesy with aged cheddar, Parmesan and provolone.

A dessert "pizza" -- flatbread topped with strawberries, blueberries and mascarpone cheese -- is interesting but save the calories for their monster-size, sinfully rich red velvet cake, a taste of all-American comfort, something we could all use now.