Valentine's Day is less than a week away, and we know lots of would-be Romeos (and Juliets) are fretting about that all-important dinner reservation. Surely, the perfect destination will seal the deal -- or, for longtime loves, ignite a few sparks. Fine food, luxurious wines, lovely candlelight -- certainly seductive. A waterfront view doesn't hurt. Champagne by moonlight? Sigh.

I have a weakness for cozy cafés where the owners are passionate about what's on the menu. That passion is catching, I think. Romantico Ristorante is not on the water, and it's not hip or fancy, but once inside, I knew it would be my kind of place. And what could be more promising than a place called Romantico?

This tiny, 5-year-old Pompano Beach trattoria is beloved by regulars, but unless you're in the know, you're likely to drive right by its storefront location on a lackluster stretch of Atlantic Boulevard.

Chef-owner Michael Di Bella took over the place from original owner and friend Tonino Tizzano and has kept its warmth and charm. One wall is decorated with mirrors of odd shapes and sizes; the other is done in textured stucco painted with Italian countryside images. The room glimmers with candlelight; white tablecloths and napkins add a classy touch -- without the high tab. Most dishes on the menu are under $20 (specials are a little higher).

Smack in the middle of the room, there's a table that appears to be set aside for a VIP with a big appetite. In the center is a large wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano, sliced in half and scooped out in the center to create a bowl -- the stage set for the house specialty, Fettuccine alla Romantico. After warm, garlicky Italian toast, it's where our meal begins.

The chef (or a cook) swirls steaming pasta in the cheese bowl, repeating the process to ensure the perfect amount of Parmesan melts into the handmade noodles, capturing a few chunks of the softened cheese in the process. There's no butter nor cream; just great cheese and silky fettuccine so light it seems to float. I could eat plate after plate.

But there's more. Starters include a classic carpaccio, the ultra-thin filet mignon served with arugula tossed with olive oil, spiked with lemon and dusted with shaved Parmesan; homemade Sicilian-style eggplant caponata; and a classic antipasto.

Entrees come with a crisp mixed green salad in a perky balsamic vinaigrette and a vegetable. Pasta, as a first course or an entree, excels, including ravioli stuffed with porcini mushrooms and ricotta with a flavorful tomato vodka sauce.

Romantico's menu is limited but what they do, they do well. Along with a handful of entrees, there are a few daily specials like our perfectly cooked fresh snapper served with shrimp, clams and especially delicious, fresh-from-the-sea mussels soaking up the light tomato-basil sauce spiked with white wine and garlic.

The menu staple of pollo capriccioso was less memorable but still good, with fillets of breaded chicken breast, pounded thin and sautéed, nicely contrasted with a mound of fresh, chopped tomatoes, mozzarella and chunks of crisp fried potatoes -- all good except for the side of broccoli, which was undercooked. Pollo Valdostano with prosciutto and a few veal dishes round out the menu.

A romantic meal requires skillful choreography, and our waiter, Carlos, delivered with a blend of efficiency and Old World charm, never intrusive but always there to fill our glasses.

As for the wine, there's a thoughtful, diverse selection (with many Italian varietals) plus a blackboard list of top-caliber labels including a $375 (collector's edition) Bricco della Torre Brunello.

Chocolate is an essential Valentine's Day ingredient, so dive into Romantico's rich, flourless chocolate cake, or our favorite, the homey panettone bread pudding with a lusty dark chocolate sauce.