There's no sand or surf in sight, but Rey's Seafood on Biscayne Boulevard brings to mind the colorful fish shacks that dot Caribbean beaches.

Painted marine blue with cheerful yellow trim, the tiny fish-fry place does a brisk business in budget-priced, freshly fried fillets, whole fish, breaded jumbo shrimp and chicken leg quarters. There are three tables inside, but most customers come for takeout.

Co-owner Ailin Fernandez runs the place with her boyfriend, Rey Garcia, and her son, Arlen Freyre. A Havana native, Ailin joined her grandfather in Miami in 1984, and went into the restaurant business. She has worked at seven places over the past 25 years, most recently as manager of a Miami Beach restaurant, where she met Rey. Her co-owner is Rosa Maria Monte de Oca, whose brother Reynaldo is the cook.

Many customers start with fritters -- big balls of fried dough packed with bits of conch, shrimp or salt cod served with salsa and a lime wedge.

Fresh fish comes from a Hialeah wholesaler, and much of it is from local waters. One exception is swai a striped catfish native to Southeast Asia that's river-farmed in Alaska. Try the mildly sweet fish as fried fillets or in mixed ceviche.

The most popular dish here is the whole fried snapper. Other choices include dolphin fillet, kingfish steak and garlic shrimp. Specials include paella, arroz con pollo and chicken steak.

All entrees come with two sides -- choose from yellow rice, tostones, maduros, salad or fries. Sip pineapple, tamarind or passion fruit juice and end with thick, silky flan. The little blue shack brings the beach to the Boulevard.