Kris Wessel was a semifinalist for this year's regional James Beard Award, and he has my vote as one of Miami's most talented chefs. At his quirky Red Light, Wessel melds Old South, Creole, Cajun, Caribbean and Miami seasonings and techniques into an exciting, evolving cuisine that's all his own.

Anyone who expects good service to go along with the fine cooking may find their patience sorely tried, but diners who bring bug spray, a sense of humor and a laid-back attitude might just put this quirky Little River spot in their little black books.

The lanky, soft-spoken chef-owner has a 15-year history of hits and runs. He delighted South Beach with the gourmet sandwich shop Paninoteca, launched a spot called Liaison on Española Way and wound up at the short-lived Mediterranean Elia in Bal Harbour. Then he disappeared for a good long while.

Besides the fact that it is still here after two years, what makes the modest Red Light Wessel's best effort to date is that it is truly his own. The scrappy, orange and red diner is like a place you'd find in Key West or New Orleans, where Wessel got his chops. It's got spunk and charm, but only for those willing to overlook the seedier elements, including a sniffly, glassy-eyed valet parker.

The prices certainly are in sync with the times, with the most expensive entree a tasty $20 New York strip steak served alongside a tangle of sweet, long-cooked onions and a juicy grilled tomato.

The best examples of Wessel's simple, robust cooking include sweet and spicy barbecue shrimp in a nearly black sauce of slow-simmered garlic, shallots, cayenne, red wine and tangy Worcestershire. Smoky wahoo fish dip is served with perky arugula and elegant sesame-seed flatbread for dipping.

The local catch, including a brilliant red snapper with leeks and lentils, is usually right on the money. Fantastically fresh tilefish braised with lemon fennel and served as a stew with little neck clams and sugarsnap peas in a rich calabaza broth is a wonder.

The homier dishes may be even better. The thick and juicy organic burger with tons of onions and melted white Cheddar can't be beat, nor can thick-as-Texas-toast slabs of buttery bread enveloping such fillings as shredded oxtail with sweet guava jam, chevre and gooey fontina.

Salad are sometimes overdressed but always well-composed, while a gritty oyster pie sounds better than it is.

For those who want a proper cocktail, there are old-fashioned Sazeracs as well as mojitos, etc. The dozen or so reasonably priced wines are mainly Spanish with a few California and French selections, including an unpretentious Domaine Mazurd Cotes du Rhone that is as lush and fruity as raspberry sherbet.

Slabs of chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream sidecars and tarts with seasonal fruit end things on a homey note.

Depending on the night, waits for food can be hours long, glasses can go unfilled and tables can remain uncleared. But when it is on, Red Light is a find for foodies who don't need creature comforts.