Call it what you like: schnitzel, cotoletto alla milanesa, wieninleike, tonkatsu, apanados, panado or breaded cutlet. Thinly pounded, lightly crumbed and deep-fried sheets of meat are beloved around the world. At the whimsical new Milanezza on Key Biscayne, waiters explain its namesake creation as a combination of milanesa-style meat and pizza. It took me a moment to figure out that the cutlet serves as a crust that you top with combinations that might include anything from Cheddar, chives, bacon and sour cream to a more classic, pizza-like tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil, garlic and oil.
For those who don’t warm to the idea of fried meat, the menu includes plenty of grilled meats and fish, salads, sandwiches and bar snacks like empanadas and stuffed dates. The milanezzas are available in small or large, and even the small ones are shareable if you are not a huge eater.
Ambience Set in a strip mall next to a Sir Pizza, the eatery has a playful, retro feel with a classic penny-farthing (the old-fashioned bike with the big wheel in the front) attached to the ceiling. Exposed light bulbs and metal chairs add to the turn-of-the-19th century charm. Half a dozen flat-screen TVs, mostly tuned to sports, break the vintage spell. Cozy booths and busy sidewalk tables allow for a more intimate experience. The cute young servers are decked out in bow ties and crisp white shirts or swingy black dresses, while bussers wear white T-shirts, black suspenders and newsboy caps.
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