“We get that a lot,” said the guy who answered the phone when I called to ask if Tim Andriola, the chef-owner of the beloved Sunny Isles eatery called Timo, was involved with Coconut Grove’s new Timo’s. The answer is a definite no. And a cease-and-desist order is unlikely to result in any name changes. This Timo’s opened several months ago in the space that most recently housed the lovely Villa Mayfair. Two decades ago it was the brilliant Brasserie le Coze, one of Miami’s finest restaurants, helmed by star chef Eric Ripert. After many brief turns as other eateries, it has devolved into a sort of raucous sports bar where Heat fans in backwards baseball caps guzzle free beer and eat from a mishmash menu that borrows comfort food from the world over.
It seems like every dish ever made popular is represented here. There’s bang bang shrimp, pad Thai, ceviche, fish tacos, fried calamari, herb-roasted chicken, pasta bolognese, chicken quesadillas, truffle fries, roasted brussels sprouts with bacon, Caesar salad, tuna tartare and the ubiquitous kale salad.
Ambience: The menu is served in a space that is as beautiful as ever, with carved wood scrollwork in the ceiling, framed mirrors along the walls, shimmery silver chairs and herringbone wood floors. An incongruous array of playful touches including boxes of board games, mismatched plastic chairs and street signs litter the outside terrace. The menu is as cacophonous as the scene, and the execution and service are uneven and amateurish.
What Didn't Work