Maybe all that glitters at Doré, the ambitious new addition to the South Beach scene, is not gold — but the place sure is stunning. This elegant, 7,000-square-foot tenant of the Ritz Carlton is also a bit scattershot. Though the name is French, the menu includes Euro and Asian flavors starting with tapas such as chicken satay and hamachi tartare, as well as fresh oysters, croque monsieur, beef tataki, gazpacho, foie gras, pastas and risottos. It’s the kind of international menu that’s meant to appeal to an equally international crowd. However, in some ways it panders with predictable offerings from frisee salad to seared salmon with coconut rice.
Ambience: Doré, or gold, certainly describes the sexy gilt interior that is little changed from its brief life as David Bouley’s Evolution, which closed in 2007 after less than a year. The Art Deco design, an elaborate display of curves, sexy fluted lamps, glittering chandeliers and mosaics, was created by Jacques Garcia, the celebrated Parisian designer. The gorgeous linen-dressed tables are set with substantial white china and a simple spray of magenta orchids. And, though the cooking is mostly top notch, some disappointing glitches can mar an otherwise delicious night on the town.
What Didn't Work