The goods: Costas Spiliadis opens his fifth Estiatorio Milos this month, bringing grilled fish and rare Mediterranean delicacies to South Beach.
Ambience: The cavernous dining room is outfitted in polished marble floors, soaring glass-enclosed wine towers, billowing sheer white curtains and warm, flattering lighting. The neighboring 20-seat “Marketa” stocks Greek honey, jams and prepared salads.
The grub: Classic Hellenic mezze and seafood. Diners choose a whole fish from an impressive, largely Mediterranean, assortment. Portions are large enough to share, but prices are high: starters in the mid-$20’s, mains $30 and wines by the glass starting at $11.
Dinner starts with a basket of toasted peasant bread, Greek olive oil and fresh oregano cut tableside. Starters include a platter combining skordalia, tzatziki, taramosalata, marinated olives, anchovies, eel and phyllo-wrapped spinach and feta; the Milos Special, a tower of battered and fried thinly-sliced zucchini and eggplant stacked around tzatziki; and a romaine salad with barrel-aged feta. Mains include Colorado lamb chops, Creekstone Farms bone-in ribeye and NY strip steaks.
Save room for tangy, house-made goat’s milk yogurt nestled in a pool of imported honey, decadent chocolate fondant, baklava (pictured) and fluffy Greek doughnuts.
Verdict: A posh Greek taverna with an epic array of fresh seafood and Mediterranean-sourced ingredients.