The goods: Expect over-the-top parties and high-rolling meals at the Delano’s new restaurant, Bianca, managed by Las Vegas’ Light Group.
Ambience: Redesigned by Sam Robin, the former Blue Door Fish space has a more subdued, elegant look with blonde wood tables, linen-covered chairs and oversized mirrors. The sexy patio boasts flowing linen curtains, candlelit tables and a view of the pool-bar parade.
The grub: Upscale pan-Italian. Executive chef Brian Massie (Fix at the Bellagio, Las Vegas) is a Slow Food adherent who focuses on local, organic ingredients. Prices are skewed to the affluent: starters $18-$36, mains $27-$58 and sides $11.
Dinner begins with a basket of crusty mini-baguettes and a dish of Italian olive oil. Starters include grilled sardines with chopped olives and shaved fennel, plump burrata on a rustic wooden board with pata negra ham and balsamic vinegar, shaved artichoke salad with Parmesan cheese, an heirloom tomato salad with goat cheese and basil cream and meatballs with “12-hour gravy.”
Pasta dishes include straightforward spaghetti pomodoro with San Marzano tomatoes, heavier veal and pancetta Bolognese and decadent house-made tagliatelle bathed in Parmesan sauce and topped with shaved Piedmonte and black truffles. Mains include a hefty sirloin “bisteca” plated with truffle fries and a steamed snapper topped with tart cherry tomatoes. Sides include roasted baby carrots with raisins and pine nuts and rich creamed spinach with shaved black truffles.
Desserts include panna cotta, tiramisu, cheesecake and the $14 “dolcettio misti,” a wooden board piled with eight mini-desserts perfect for sharing.
Verdict: A luxe Italian newcomer at the Delano with opulent dishes and a serene atmosphere.