As simple and dramatic as a bonfire, Paula DaSilva’s cooking at the Eden Roc is attracting sophisticated diners like moths to a flame. Picture windows overlooking the pool deck lend a tropical feel, but for an even better view, cast your gaze at the smoothly running open kitchen, where Dean Max protégé DaSilva operates a gleaming, stainless steel asador at the scorching temperature that gives the restaurant its name. The Brazilian-born chef, who trained at the Fort Lauderdale Art Institute, clearly knows how to handle heat. And though this is most definitely a steak house — male guests outnumber females four to one — it is much more. You get the sense that only the best ingredients are allowed in DaSilva’s kitchen.
Ambience: The space is handsome in a clean and modern, if generic, way. Cushy, leatherlike white chairs on spindly espresso-colored legs are paired with cozy banquettes and snow-white marble tables, all bracketed by glittery amber-toned chandeliers and slate-gray floors. The soundtrack could use some work. Though much is made of the fact that Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr. and Frank Sinatra stayed and played here in their heyday, I could have sworn we heard a Muzak version of Let It Be during one of our several meals.
What Didn’t Work