One of the edgiest and most stunning additions to the Miami dining scene, Wynwood Kitchen & Bar is a magnet for a young, artsy crowd. When it comes to real estate and art, owners Tony Goldman and daughter Jessica Goldman Srebnick are indeed visionaries. Unfortunately, when it comes to the food, I just don’t see it. My meals ranged from mediocre to barely edible.
Chef Marco Ferraro, who also cooks at Wish, another gorgeous Goldman property, can’t seem to focus his talents. Here the menu (the same at lunch and dinner) is a disparate collection of salads, burgers, skewers, omelets, sausages, clay pots and lots of fried bar food. It’s printed on a vinyl-coated sheet the size of a tabloid newspaper that, frankly, could use a good wipe-down between customers. At least it’s easy to love the bar—if you can handle the off-the-meter decibels. It’s a perfect fit for the crowd that flocks here, especially on weekends, for the club-like vibe. We watched tables of 20-somethings pawing champagne flutes like 7-Eleven Big Gulps, tossing back tumbler-sized shots and guzzling fruity cocktails with their meals.
Ambience: Soaring ceilings and concrete floors frame dramatic murals by boldface-named artists, and the colorful façade splashed with sherbet-haired moppets and mischievous kittens by Brazilians twins Os Gemeos makes me smile. Every inch of the bar is covered with looming red and black graphics by Shepard Fairey of Obama “Hope” poster fame. Abstract paintings by Christian Awe, Dearraindrop and Kenny Scharf brighten the main dining room, making it feel more like a funky, modern gallery than a restaurant.
What Didn’t Work