3.5 stars for farm-to-table eats in Fort Lauderdale
Broward restaurants haven't embraced the farm-to-table movement in a big way, but Market 17 has set about to change that. Executive chef Dan Ramos can tell you that the rare hua moa plantain-banana hybrid he uses for tostones was grown in Davie, the pork came from Palmetto Creek Farms in Avon Park, and the black grouper was caught off Fort Pierce. Dedication to fresh, quality, organic ingredients on a menu that changes daily is the idea behind Market 17, which opened Oct. 21 in a lovely 215-seat indoor-outdoor space (formerly Fish and Jackson's Bar and Grill) on 17th Street Causeway.
But even diners who couldn't care less where their food comes from can enjoy a sensational meal here. Brother and sister Aaron Grauberger and Kirsta Grauberger are behind the contemporary restaurant, which features dining in the dark and wine-paired tasting menus that can stretch to more than a dozen courses. The 350-label international wine list (30 by the glass, in 4- or 8-ounce pours) emphasizes small, family-owned vineyards. The menu can be pricey, but petite portions, mostly under $20, are generous.
Ambience: Market 17 is the whole package. Servers are attentive and knowledgeable. The setting is sophisticated, with sheer curtains, comfy banquettes and eclectic paintings by Delray Beach artist Joshua Von Nonn.
- A basket of delicious bread served with olive tapenade and bean spread
- The chef’s interpretation of ceviche, made tableside - paper-thin slices of shrimp, snapper and scallops in a high-acid bath of orange, lemon and lime juices spiked with cilantro, red onion, celery and a little japaleño. Add organic carrot, avocado and popcorn
- Refreshing Caprese-style salad with house-made mozzarella, heirloom tomatoes, a garnish of micro basil, dill tips and parsley and a dressing of aged balsamic vinegar and organic olive oil
- Delicately sweet kohlrabi, sunchokes, turnips, beets and brussels sprouts.
- Pan-seared fresh snapper, grouper and sheepshead
- Tender and succulent Maine lobster removed from the shell and poached in farm butter
- Guinea fowl basted in its own juices
- Warm monkey bread with caramelized banana-plantains, banana-caramel ice cream and cinnamon sauce.
- Luscious, refreshing Key lime mousse
What Didn’t Work
- Wheat berries that were a little dry
- Snapper that could have used more seasoning