Ken Lyon brings authentic New England flavors to South Florida with his Cape Cod Room in the refurbished Bath Club, a Roaring Twenties remnant that's the oldest social club on Miami Beach’s Millionaire’s Row. The spot has been open since October to friends and family but barely six weeks to the paying public, and not all the wait staff has its sea legs. We had dishes delivered to the wrong diners and others cleared before we were done, but a seasoned server makes up for the gaffes with style, verve and humor.
Over the past three decades, Lyon has shown his range ... with Lyon Freres, Lyon+Lyon Catering and the beloved enoteca Fratelli Lyon ... and now returns to his New England roots with food that emanates integrity. Some might knock the place as pretentious with its three-paragraph Thoreau quote on the menu cover or eco-insensitive with its shipped-in seafood, but the proof is in the Indian pudding.
Ambiance: Dressed in khaki and sea blue with framed sailboats floating along one wall, the intimate, 75-seat space is done in a style that suits its name if not the charming, Mediterranean Revival building. It's pretty if a bit musty; opening the doors onto the pool-front terrace would provide a welcome breath of fresh air.
What Didn’t Work
Photo: John B. Gynell