Prime Blue Grille
- 315 S. Biscayne Blvd.
- Downtown Miami, FL 33132
- 305-358-5901
- http://primebluegrille.com
- Report an error
- $$$$, $40 and up
- Steak House
- Reservations
- Menu
The prototype for a new chain, this light, bright waterfront gem delivers delicious riffs on steakhouse classics as well as some fantastic seafood options in the form of juicy local grilled grouper and a imported branzino. Beef is hormone- and antibiotic-free, and beautifully marbled. Build-your-own salads and lusty pizzas also impress. A full raw bar and an Italian-accented wine list are bonuses, as is the helpful and knowledgeable staff.
BY VICTORIA PESCE ELLIOTT
Miami's brand spanking new Prime Blue Grille delivers way more than high-priced beef and fancy potatoes. It adds style and substance to the moribund downtown scene.
The creation of Smith & Wollensky veteran Jim Dunn and his Boston-based WellDunn Restaurant Group, the second-floor space adjacent to One Miami at the southern tip of Biscayne Boulevard is tricky to find the first time, but well worth the effort.
The prototype for a nascent chain, it's an oasis of soft oranges, muted greens, warm woods, shimmery terrazzo and rustic stone with a sweeping view of the Miami River and Biscayne Bay and terrace seating to take advantage of the breeze.
The wait staff is awfully friendly if lacking in polish. The waiter who tried to debone my branzino, for example, left a mouthful of bones and a ragged carcass on the plate. Even so, as with nearly every other dish I tasted on two visits, the flavor is superb. Corporate chef Tindaro LoSurdo turned over the kitchen last week to executive chef Wesley Moura, and I'm assured he can maintain the high standards.
A meal begins with half a warm baguette basketed with slices of crusty walnut and raisin bread, sweet whipped butter and a lusty olive tapenade -- great to nibble while perusing the 300-plus bottle, Italian-accented wine list. There are some fine values, a few trophy bottles and an impressive by-the-glass selection that begins at just $7. (Wine collectors note: Corkage is waived for the first bottle.)
The dry-aged beef -- grown without hormones or antibiotics, though on corn, by California's family-owned Brandt Beef -- is somewhat eco-conscious and immensely flavorful.
A gorgeously marbled, bone-in rib-eye with a sliver of fat in every bite and an expertly charred hide could not have been better. Even the leaner ''petite'' filet mignon, as big as my fist, was a buttery treat. Both were cooked exactly as ordered, medium-rare with a juicy, pinkish-red center.
A sweet and spicy, tamarind and molasses-based steak sauce brings out the bold flavor of the meat.
A decadent purée of creamy potatoes dotted with truffle essence is an outrageous side dish, and the potato gratin with Italian ham, fontina, cream cheese and cream is even better.
Other sides, including wood-grilled Brussels sprouts, sautéed spinach, classic risotto, caramelized cipollini onions and Chinese long beans, are flawlessly executed. Build-your-own salad components include beets, Kalamata olives, tomatoes, dried cherries, feta, blue cheese, roasted peppers, sunflower seeds, pine nuts and eggs.
These thoughtful additions make this a steak house where you could invite health-conscious friends and even vegetarians. Options for no-red-meat eaters include roasted chicken, wood-grilled pompano, wild Alaskan salmon and a full raw bar.
And did I mention the pizzas? Too substantial to order as an appetizer, even for two, they include an especially hunky sausage. The crispy, charred crust is at once pliable and chewy, topped with perhaps just a bit too much mozzarella cheese.
Desserts include a rich puff of chocolate mousse and a massive wedge of white chocolate cheesecake plated with a delightful peach compote.
There are plans for more Prime Blue Grilles in Boca Raton, Las Vegas (of course) and Boston. All I can say is, if they build them, I will come.
Hours
11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight Friday, 6 p.m.-midnight Saturday, 5-10 p.m. SundayDetails
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Location
| Average rating based on 1 review. |
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A solid restaurant with a good lunch vibe -- especially good for client lunches. The food is tasty, and the menu offers a lot of options, from sandwiches to full entrees. Dinner time is also good, although the Miami River view is better during the day. Friendly and courteous staff.
Posted by: Food_Dude on Mon, 2008-07-07 19:37