Barton G. Weiss has always had a flair for the dramatic. As South Florida's ``caterer to the stars,'' he has been known to employ monkeys, giraffes and burlesque dancers flown from Paris to wow jaded patrons.

Weiss proved he could translate his exquisite sense of showmanship into a buzz-worthy restaurant with his namesake South Beach hideaway, which for nearly a decade has been delighting customers who like smoke and mirrors with their salad.

At the sexy, 7-month-old Prelude by Barton G at The Adrienne Arsht Center, this party pro shows he also can deliver a more demure dining experience.

It's the perfect fix -- or make that prixe fix -- for the theater crowd. OK, not entirely perfect, but an awfully appealing option for a pre- or post-show repast.

The reservation policy is one notable quirk. Meals are supposed to be booked and paid for in advance online -- a potential headache for less tech-savvy diners.

The décor is simply smashing: bold, mustard-colored swirls alongside smoky topaz marble slabs, burnished gingerbread woods, soaring ceilings cut with slashes of red curtain and pulsating, backlit jellyfish that add a science-museum touch.

Faux white orchids brighten tables set with Frette linens and custom tableware. Cozy banquettes in almond ultra suede make you want to sit all day, as does the consistently friendly, earnest and attractive staff.

The menu, overseen by talented executive chef Anthony Dee, is likewise easy to embrace. A full meal -- any three courses -- is just $39, which is less than an entree at some South Beach hot spots.

And the bread. Ah, that is where things get truly dangerous -- crusty sourdough gorgeousness with a bowl of cool, sweet butter.

From a Caesar salad to roast chicken and skirt steak, simple items are expertly executed and prettily plated, familiar but not boring.

Much of the food seems engineered more for style than taste, but the flavors tend to work. A watermelon and heirloom tomato salad, for example, is a striking arrangement in red with nice crunch and pop, though a swath of sea salt and a doll-size colander clutter the plate.

In another salad, see-through squares of golden and red beet make a striking chess board alongside gently seared tuna slices dotted with micro greens that add a fresh bite.

The tortellini with goat cheese in a savory red pepper broth swimming with mushrooms and bits of asparagus has a beautiful balance of flavors even if the pasta was a bit mushy.

Tops among the fresh and well-portioned seafood is plump and juicy branzino with crisp skin in a gorgeous broth with perfectly cooked zucchini and yellow squash.

Puff pastry-topped short ribs braised in a brandy cream are a showstopper.

Brunch deserves a standing ovation for its simplicity and value, especially when kids are in tow. Standouts include a trio of sliders on puffy potato buns, fried chicken salad and a silvery slab of salmon with a golden crust in a luxurious beurre blanc. Big eaters, be advised: Matinee portions tend toward petite.

Not so the grand and showy desserts. A cappuccino-infused pot du creme with nutty planks of biscotti, cascading strawberry shortcake,and signature caramel sundaes with a fried apple pie twist will serve two.

Talented wine director Sarah Brownell has put together a sophisticated, 100-bottle list that includes clever matches for each menu item and a range of portions from a one-ounce ``taste'' to a full glass.

Don't expect pricey, pristine or pedigreed ingredients here. Barton G aims for universally appealing dishes that don't go out of season. That said, Dee and his team put out delicious and decadent fare that will please any audience.