velliott@MiamiHerald.com

I had no idea so many Miamians had such a low opinion of Mexican restaurants until I tried to find a few to come review one with me. In other major food cities, diners are familiar with the exquisite possibilities of Mexican cuisine, but in South Florida, thoughts turn to greasy, cheesy burritos and tacos.

Poblano, a haute but not haughty newcomer in South Miami, takes the stuff of the Mexican larder to a higher level. And on the eve of Mexican Independence Day, it's fitting to highlight the virtues of this cozy neighborhood venture that is winning converts with tacos and chips as well creations the likes of which have not been seen in these parts.

The simple but elegant dining room with adobe-white walls and cozy wooden chairs is a big step up from Señor Frog's. It could use some subtler lighting, candles on the tables or maybe some subdued music, but as it is the place is welcoming enough. It is made more so by a young and friendly staff who are happy to offer a taste of wine or an explanation of an unfamiliar ingredient.

Not that the menu needs any serious parsing; it is compact. There are a baker's dozen appetizers and salads and about as many entrees on the dinner menu. Guacamole and tortilla soup share table space with more upscale offerings such as singingly fresh snapper ceviche; a juicy, grilled tuna steak with tamarind-pasillo sauce and fried beets; as well as an exceptional blue cheese and chipotle filet mignon.

The wine list, too, is modest with a couple of dozen bottles ($23-$65) dominated by reasonably priced domestic standbys such as Chteau St. Michelle's Eroica Resiling and Forest Glen Merlot. A few decent South American and Spanish reds round it out nicely. Poblano is licensed for wine and beer only, and the wine-based margarita is, not surprisingly, rather anemic. The neon-green cucumber lemonade is as refreshing as a September breeze and as good as any of the alcoholic libations.

It's easy to fill up on the rough-cut but gently fried tortilla chips and smoky tomato and poblano chile salsa that appear as soon as you're seated. But it is worth saving room for the delicate portions of fine fish tacos, a trio of soft, corn tacos splayed out to reveal tender chunks of red snapper in a tangy red sauce accented with onion, cilantro and a spritz of lime. A heartier starter, the Gruyre soup, is rich enough to be a dip but made zingy with a splash of tequila.

All of the salads we sampled were fresh, bright and gratifying, including a tender grilled chicken with mango, a tomato and cactus with cubes of Oaxacan cheese, and a decent beet and carrot with nuggets of seared snapper.

Main courses are equally satisfying, if less exciting than the menu descriptions suggest. The Tampiqueña style beef, a classic from Mexico City's Tampico Club, is a well-seared flank cut served on a banana leaf with an enchilada and a tiny bump of guacamole. It's tasty enough (if a little tough), though not as authentic as heartier versions with beans I have tasted in Texas. The halibut's bright and luscious parsley vinaigrette tastes fresher than the fish, which is served with simple mixed sautéed spinach and white rice.

Chicken in green poblano sauce is tender, juicy and dotted with cubes of queso fresco. For those who need a little extra spice, be sure to ask for a side of the excellent house-made chile sauce that simmers rather than scorches.

For dessert, a sort of mango tart on a buttery shortbread cookie with a caramelized sugar top is excellent, as is the coconut soup with a hunky bread pudding center.

More vegetarian options would be welcome, as would a little more passion in the kitchen. As it is, Poblano is a novel addition to our dining scene that should please adventurous palates.

Reviewed on September 14, 2006

velliott@MiamiHerald.com