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OLA stands for Of Latin America, meaning chef Douglas Rodriguez can do pretty much whatever he wants with a palette of Brazilian, Peruvian, Colombian, Spanish, Argentine, Caribbean and Mexican flavors. And while his experiments don't always work, they are often lyrical.

Two or three of the half-dozen ceviches on the menu could make a delightful meal on their own. Outstanding selections include the jewel-like rainbow of tuna, grouper and salmon with white soy and sesame seeds, a sleek pompano with watermelon, pumpkin seeds and Thai basil and the salmon with tarragon, pink peppercorns and baby smiles of pink grapefruit.

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