The Icebox, perhaps the most popular chill-out spot on Off-Lincoln, is competing in the big leagues now. Opened five years ago by Robert Siegmann primarily as a bakery and brunch-and-dessert place, the Box has annexed an adjoining Michigan Avenue storefront and is now running a full kitchen and serving wine and beer.

Argentine-born chef Andrea Landini's menu rotates daily among eight or so starters and a dozen entrees, but there are some standards. Paramount among them is the gleaming dessert case between the cramped dining room and the open kitchen, where you'll find the Beach's finest desserts this side of Nemo's Hedy Goldsmith.

Raspberry chocolate mousse cake leads the parade, but Siegmann says his carrot cake is the best ever, and he might be right.

If you want dessert, you'll have to eat your meat. Not a problem. A starter of chipotle-chicken-stuffed tacos paired with a poblano quesadilla with manchego cheese is a winner (though please provide more salsa and less sour cream).

Greek salad is sturdy and lush with pepperoncini, kalamata olives and ripe tomatoes. Tender Vietnamese-spiced chicken strips are matched with a cooling Asian relish. Grilled shrimp is marinated with balsamic, adding sweetness to a light dish. Argentine skirt steak is always on the menu -- big and juicy, with plenty of roasted potatoes and vegetables (platters here are big). Grilled tilapia gets interesting with wilted spinach and fragrant curry-flavored rice.

Chicken marsala, the simplest entree, was also the best, the breast meat wonderfully moist and the sauce rich and full-flavored. Mashed potatoes were studded with caramelized carrots, a sweet touch. As if you needed it here.