Blue Collar serves up wallet-friendly comfort food in MiMo

Sara Liss1/16/2012

The goods: MiMo’s American Noodle Bar space aims for working-class  cred with Blue Collar, helmed by Chef Daniel Serfer (Chef Allen’s).

Ambience:  The tiny spot with 20 indoor seats and space for 18 on the patio is dominated by an open kitchen. A blackboard touts the day’s specials and a rotating list of vegetable sides. Mid-century style white chairs, blue upholstered benches, metal lunchboxes, vintage metal thermoses and waiters in old-school diner uniforms create a homey vibe.

The grub: Contemporary comfort food. Serfer blends childhood favorites with more sophisticated dishes. Prices are neighborhood-friendly, with most starters $6, pastas and mains $11-$25 and sides $4. Wines by the glass are $5-$9, and beers are $3-$5.

Dinner begins with half a loaf of crusty bread and butter. Starter highlights include pork and beans with a fried egg (pictured), bacon-sprinkled shrimp and grits, latkes with house-made applesauce and decadent mac and cheese made with Trugole, Cheddar and Parmesan. Mains include a delicate snapper in spicy red curry sauce, a hefty veggie burger with fries, chicken Parmesan and ribs (baby-back, short or spare). Save room for veggie sides like curried cauliflower puree, roasted beets with goat cheese, grilled asparagus with blue cheese and spaghetti squash with butter.

Down-home desserts include warm berry cobbler, a huge slab of espresso chocolate cake and Heath Bar bread pudding.

The verdict: A mod diner on Biscayne Blvd serving affordable, belly-filling comfort food.