Aldo**

Calamari alla griglia (calamari with baby arugula, onions and cherry tomatoes in a lemon mustard sauce) is shown at Aldo Restaurant & Bar, 1917 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. Chef owner Aldo Vespero is a native of Napoli, Italy. Photo by Marsha Halper.

 

Rochelle Koff9/2/2009

By Rochelle Koff

Hollywood’s new 220-seat Aldo Restaurant & Bar opened in March after the departure of Saratoga. Chef-owner is Napolitan native Aldo Vespero, whose culinary career in South Florida has spanned more than 10 years and stints at Capriccio in Brickell, Bice in Delray Beach, Bocca di Rosa in Coconut Grove, La Bussola in Coral Gables and AcquaPazza in Sunny Isles. Aldo features classic Italian fare such as baked eggplant, veal scallopini and seafood soup brimming with grouper, clams, mussels, shrimp and calamari, complemented by a reasonably priced wine list with a good selection of Italian varietals. If you love fresh pasta, you'll appreciate that Aldo whips up 10 varieties ... all served by professional, accommodating staffers quick to keep water and vino flowing.

Ambiance: Aldo made some renovations to the old Saratoga space, but did nothing drastic. It has a few sidewalk tables, a handsome bar in dark woods and two soothing dining rooms, with candlelight and white tablecloths, the space brightened by captivating modern art (for sale), most of it painted by the owner's friend, Benny Narkis of Paris and Aventura.

What Worked

• Simple chicken Marsala served with rich, deep classic sauce rich and house-made fettuccine topped with a hearty Bolognese sauce
• Perfectly grilled slabs of tender juicy calamari with baby arugula, onions and cherry tomatoes in a perky lemon mustard sauce
• Grilled jumbo shrimp wrapped in pancetta set atop a mound of slightly bitter sautéed broccoli rabe
• Caesar salad stocked with fresh greens, a few anchovies and an excellent creamy dressing
• Creamy (not mushy) risotto spiked with sliced crisp asparagus and a hint of Parmesan and truffle oil
• Scrumptious, potent and whispery light tiramisu with layers of mascarpone, espresso and lady fingers
• Delicious warm Zabaglione garnished with fresh blueberries and strawberries

What Didn’t Work

• A less than fresh tasting grouper special
• Stale croutons on an otherwise pleasing Cesar salad

Aldo Restaurant & Bar: 1917 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood; 954-923-0100; Hours: 5pm to midnight Sunday-Thursday; 5pm to 1am Friday-Saturday; Prices: Appetizers $8-$13; soup-salad $7-$10; pasta $14-$23; entrees $22-$28; sides $5-$8; desserts $8-$12.
FYI: Live music Wednesday-Sunday; full bar; corkage fee varies; street metered parking. AX, DN, DS, MC, VS.

Speak up!