Naoe Japanese Restaurant

A meal prepared by Executive Chef Kevin Cory of NAOE Japanese Restaurant. Photo: Al Diaz

 

By Victoria Pesce Elliott 4/7/2010

There are no menus at Naoe, a 5-month-old Japanese gem in Sunny Isles Beach.  Instead, chef Kevin Cory prepares a changing selection of pristine seafood based on what is fresh and what he feels like putting together. It's an omakase (“entrusting'') menu, a familiar concept in Japan and many U.S. cities. You can alert Cory to any food allergies, cravings or phobias, but be assured you'll get no creamy-cheesy, inside-out rolls at Miamiés most serious sushi shrine.

Ambiance
This 17-seat jewel is as sleek and pretty as the inside of a mussel shell with its low lights, shimmery black and gray walls and floors and gentle classical soundtrack. The best seats ... in fact, the only ones I recommend ... are at the sushi counter, where you can watch Cory expertly slice his way through exotic imports from Japan and local product from Haulover pier.

What Worked

• Sumptuous egg custard with strips of freshwater eel (unagi)  lacquered with richly sweetened shoyu sauce
• Gently fried mutton snapper coated in vIvid green tea powder
• Hearty red miso soup boasting ar array of textures including corn and a sweet hunk of nutty mochi
• Sea bream on a sliver of lemon so thin it could be a veil
• A crescent of cantaloupe dressed lightly in a salty rice wine vinegar that brings out its cool, flowery sweetness

What Didn’t Work

• A lack of finesse when it comes to timing

Naoe Japanese Restaurant. 175 Sunny Isles Blvd., Sunny Isles Beach, 305-947-6263. Hours: 7:30-10:30 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. Prices: Prix-fixe omakase meal $26; additional per-piece charge for more sushi.

FYI: Reservations required and available at www.opentable.com or by phone; no walk-ins accepted. Sake and beer only; $25 corkage. Free parking lot in rear of building. AX, DN, DS, MC, VS.

Speak up!

Average rating based on 2 reviews.

4

What you said

8

kyleteal25

4

Posted on Thu, 02.17.2011 @ 17:04

INCREDIBLE.

1

dd10003

4

Posted on Sat, 07.31.2010 @ 16:43

NAOE WOWE!! I lived in Japan for a few years with the privilege of frequently dining in Japan's best gems. I've had stints on both US coasts and must say, there is no Japanese restaurant in the USA comparable to NAOE asides Masa and Urasawa at over five times the price and NAOE provides as good or better of an experience. Some Japanese restaurants have either great kitchen food or great sushi and typically failed deserts. But not all great. NAOE has an astounding simple natural Japanese tasting $26 chef's choice followed by the best sushi in the USA for only $3-8 per piece ending with homemade deserts and intoxicating Japanese teas in MIAMI?? Are you kidding me??? Most non-Japanese complain if their rice isn't cream cheese-gooey and seafood isn't frozen-cheap or doesn't consist of only pure fat. I'm happy you pointed that out VPE. NAOE's casual elegance is a stroke of genius. I can't believe they opened in Miami, not NYC or Japan. It's amazing how well received they've been down here. Great review! 4/4 FOUR STARS! ****... Read more

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