After more than 30 years and 80 locations as far-flung as Singapore, Mexico City and Macau, Morton's The Steakhouse has finally brought its prime beef to Broward.

The Fort Lauderdale branch of the famed Chicago-based chain, on the busy intersection of Broward Boulevard and U.S. 1, joins a long list of chop houses in town, but Morton's is the granddaddy of sizzle. Sure it's a chain, but Morton's embraces a winning formula, combining excellent service and consistently well-executed steaks and seafood.

It's also known for an extensive wine list, with 300 labels ranging from a $43 California cabernet to a $353 Italian Barbaresco, plus 30 choices by the glass ($8.95-$22.95). Check out the temperature-controlled wine room with 2,500 bottles and separate personal lockers for elite clients.

The restaurant is well-suited to expense accounts, though there are deals, including ''Power Hours'' at the bar with petit filet mignon sandwiches, mini prime cheeseburgers and other gourmet bites for $5.

The decor is classy, with white tablecloths, candlelight, dark wood tables, beige booths and a photo montage of celebrity patrons. There are outdoor tables and private dining rooms, too.

Munch on loaves of wonderful, warm onion bread while your server brings a preview cart including raw steak, a huge potato, a head of broccoli and a live, squirming Maine lobster -- too much reality for my daughter. So we feasted on a delicious but anonymous trio of sea scallops, wrapped with bacon, broiled and served with apple chutney.

Chopped salad is a generous array of iceberg and romaine, avocado, palm and artichoke hearts, red onions, tomatoes, diced eggs and blue cheese crumbles properly dressed in a refreshing Dijon vinaigrette.

Seafood dominates the starter list with items like a chilled or baked seafood platter, oysters Rockefeller and colossal shrimp cocktail.But when it comes to the main affair, meat rules. One of the best steaks here is the flavorful Cajun rib-eye, marinaded for 60 hours. It's not hot as its name suggests, but it's memorable. If you're a fan of rib-eye, which gets lots of flavor from its marbling, there's also a Chicago-style, bone-in version.

The 24-ounce porterhouse is another hit, nicely seasoned, charred and pink. Filet mignon is ultra tender but so lean it's not particularly flavorful, so Morton's compensates with a rich béarnaise sauce on the side.

Back to the sea, a broiled salmon fillet is simple but splendid, buttery, light and flaky. Our Australian lobster tail was plump and sweet but a little chewy.

Most dishes are a la carte, so pair with family-style sides like jumbo asparagus with a balsamic glaze or Lyonnaise potatoes sautéed with onions and bacon.

Order hot desserts like chocolate cake or upside-down apple pie at the start of your meal so they'll be ready in time. (All desserts are made on premises except the S&S Cheesecake.)

The apple pie, made with thin Granny Smith slices and golden raisins and served a la mode, is tasty but not as scrumptious as the carrot cake a light, moist classic with shredded pineapple and carrots, chopped walnuts and a sweet cream cheese icing.

Morton's is a special occasion restaurant for most of us, but it's an experience to savor.