The Goods: Umi replaces Blue Sea and brings a superlative sushi bar to the Delano Hotel.
Ambience: Umi remains largely unchanged from its Blue Sea days. It’s dimmer and cozier, but the communal table and the “Philippe-Starck-does-Cape Cod” vibe remain.
The Grub: Eclectic sushi and sashimi from chef Toshi Motoyama. Interesting cold plates include yellowtail Serrano with truffle salt ($21), salmon carpaccio and a mixed green salad with shaved vegetables & a sweet onion dressing.
Signature rolls include the decadent $32 Delano Roll (poached lobster, sweet sticky rice, Wagu beef and a shave of black truffle), the baked crab hand roll laced with sesame-speckled soy paper and the FDR (tuna, salmon, yellowtail and crab). Sushi and sashimi round out the menu – look for sweet shrimp ($14), bluefin tuna ($35) and Japanese snapper ($11)
Desserts include the Delano’s famous Molten Chocolate Cake served up with green tea Mochi ($14).
Verdict: You’ll be wondering why all sushi restaurants can’t be this good until you get the check and, with a sigh, you’ll be glad they aren’t.