The goods: Downtown Miami gets stone crabbed with Truluck’s, the fourth Florida outpost of the popular supper club chain. The restaurant prides itself on serving sustainable fish and seafood from its own crabbing boats and fisheries. The polished spot also has an ambitious wine program, with more than 100 by-the-glass options. Happy hour (3-7pm Monday-Saturday) promises to buzz with live piano, half-price cocktails and $5 king crab deviled eggs and other bar bites.

Ambience: Truluck’s is equally outfitted for power lunches (cushy burgundy banquettes, a grand wood-paneled wine room) and intimate dinners (warm lighting, jazz soundtrack, smaller booths).

The grub: American seafood and steaks. Depending on the night, the raw bar may be stocked with Florida stone crabs, North Atlantic Jonah crab, Alaskan red king crab and oysters from the Pacific Northwest.

The aged steaks and chops are antibiotic- and hormone-free cuts from Niman Ranch. Prices reflect the high-powered atmosphere: starters average $11 and most entrees are in the $30 range. Portions are generous, however, and most mains include a side dish.Begin with a “superlump” crab cake and follow that with lightly breaded calamari. With stone crab here, go straight for the claws, served cracked, sans bibs. The miso-glazed sea bass is a crowd pleaser, and the Clear Springs rainbow trout is a hefty 10-ounce portion. The Steak Oscar pairs a Niman Ranch sirloin with a creamy bearnaise sauce topped with crabmeat. Desserts are large and showy, easily satisfying a table of four. Among the towering slices: a classic carrot cake drizzled with butterscotch sauce and a ganache-laden chocolate.

Verdict: Brickellites no longer have to cross the causweway to feast on stone crabs and other oceanic delicacies.


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