Traymore restaurant in Miami Beach entices with seafood, 40 gins at the new Metropolitan by COMO hotel

The who: Chef Jonathan Lane (Four Seasons Las Vegas, Chicago’s Benny’s Chop House) heads up Traymore, an upscale seafood restaurant at the new Metropolitan by COMO hotel in Miami Beach.

The space: Located in the Art Deco hotel’s gleaming white lobby, Traymore is outfitted with refurbished columns, modern light fixtures, polished terrazzo floors and white wicker seating.

Outdoors: Terrace seating in the back of the hotel overlooking the repaved Miami Beach walk.

The bar: Features 40 gins, including rare and pricey varieties. Don’t miss the house gin and tonic.

A secret menu: All COMO properties offer COMO Shambhala cuisine, a parallel menu of raw, vegan and dairy-free alternatives prepared with little salt and unprocessed honey. Try the seared spiced salmon with chopped cauliflower or the quinoa and pomegranate salad topped with smoky eggplant puree.

The dishes: Contemporary seafood. Prices are in keeping with a high-end hotel: Starters $10-$22 and mains $20-$38.

Light starters include fluke crudo with celery, lemon and capers; sweet corn soup with chanterelle mushrooms; and grilled jumbo octopus with potatoes, olives and salsa verde. Larger plates feature fragrant seafood stew with tomatoes, fennel and feta cheese; roasted striped bass with clams, sweet peas and mint; and homemade garganelli with peekytoe crab, zucchini, mint and chili.

Dessert features sesame canola with passion fruit cream and mango salad, pina colada layer cake and macaroons with berries.

The bottom line: A restored Deco gem shines again with this upscale seafood spot.