The who: The owners of Bulla Gastrobar continue their colonization of the Downtown Doral area with this second outpost the popular Kendall eatery, Pisco y Nasca. Culinary direction comes from Peruvian chef Miguel Antonio Gomez Fernández who has served as Chef de Cuisine at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, celebrity chef Gastón Acurio’s Peruvian restaurant in San Francisco.
The space: A sprawling space that encompasses private dining rooms, a buzzing bar and an outdoor patio, the interior feels and looks very similar to the Kendall location. Earthy copper tones, teal and orange accents, walnut flooring, and handmade concrete tiles give the space the proper South American boho atmosphere.
The dishes: Modern Peruvian. Prices are reasonable given the stylish trappings with most starters $8-$17 and mains $14-$43. A more robust selection of anticuchos sets this menu apart from its Kendall sibling.
Ceviche comes seven ways including a traditional made with flounder, choclo and sweet potato and rarer jalapeno hucatay with salmon and creamy jalapeno leche le tigre.
Small plates like “butichino” bring fried pork buns stuffed with pork nikkei, hoisin mayo, pickled salsa criolla, and lotus root chips while empanadas come with mushrooms or chicken and a rocoto pepper aioli. The “bombas rellenas” are ají de gallina fritters crusted in quinoa and served with a purple olive aioli and a huacatay sauce.
The lomo saltado is a straight-up version of the beef stir fry while the “pargo crocante” is a whole fried snapper served with white chaufa rice. More seafood can be had with the mariscada brimming with mahi, octopus, shrimp and squid and the “chaufa aeropuerto” is a melange of shrimp, chicken, calamari and pickled vegetables all folded into fried rice.
The chocolate dome is a fun-to-watch dessert composed of sweet potato custard and a warm ganache. It is topped with liquid white chocolate which then melts the dome to reveal it all.
Bottom Line: This homegrown brand of hip Peruvian continues to woo suburbanites looking for creative cooking in an unlikely setting.