Spanish team goes for high-end Mediterranean food at Klima in Miami Beach

Klima Miami

The Who: Restaurateurs Pablo Fernández-Valdés and Yago Giner from Spain have teamed to open Klima. David “Rusti” Rustarazo (Coure in Barcelona) is the executive chef.

The Space: The former Tosca space now looks like a hip boutique hotel with multicolor Turkish rugs, wood shelves lined with books and knick-knacks, and an enviable art and sculpture collection. A backyard patio festooned with design-lover’s cardboard accordion lanterns is romantic and secluded.

The Dishes: Mediterranean with global influences. The concise menu offers raw selections, homemade pastas and heartier mains. Prices skew high with starters $18-$20 and mains $24-$42.

Zak the Baker gets things started, then it’s on to shareable plates like the salad made with fennel, burrata, kalamata, dried tomatoes and basil or the local fish ceviche with avocado, Chilean green onion, salmon roe and togarashi. The tuna toast with brava chipotle, leek and lime is akin to a tuna tartare, and the salmorejo is like a gazpacho but more creamy, with lobster and egg yolk.

Mains include pastas like the veal-stuffed cannelloni, black cod with spinach pesto, rib-eye with smoked eggplant and mustard, and chicken terrine and foie in a slow-roasted chicken reduction.

Desserts keep things light and creative with an almond trifle and creamy chocolate, a Key lime pie and macerated strawberries with lemon slush.

The Bottom Line: Iberian food aficionados will find much to love here, as will design devotees.

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