POC brings high-end modern American cooking and sushi to Village at Gulfstream Park

The what: Ports of Call Restaurant Group, an outfit known for high-end Asian buffets, opens its first à la carte outpost, POC Modern American Cuisine, at the Village at Gulfstream Park.

The who:  Sushi chef Kevin Z. and executive chef Benjamin Huselton collaborate on a hefty list of shareable plates. Texas-born Huselton studied at the French Culinary Institute and opened three David Burke restaurants. Kevin Z. has rolled sushi at Nobu and SushiSamba.

The plates: Range from small tapas-style portions to larger mains. Huselton’s upscale dishes wouldn’t be out of place at a ritzy hotel restaurant with items like pan-seared foie gras with Asian pear salad and Jameson gastrique and butter poached lobster with watercress and caviar beurre blanc. Entrée-sized plates include spring pea risotto and white wine-poached snapper with maitake mushrooms.

Kevin Z.’s sushi bar takes the bells-and-whistles approach with add-ons like walnuts, mango and cream cheese. Rolls like the POC Fusion (a tempura shrimp roll topped with lobster salad, avocado and caviar) and the Ultimate JB (smoked salmon, cream cheese, Asian pear and caviar wrapped in soy bean paper and topped with salmon tataki) are meals in themselves.

The bottom line: If you’re at Gulfstream and looking for high-end modern American cooking and hip sushi, this sleek spot should do it.