He watched the ‘nonnas’ cook, and that inspired this culinary salute to Italy

Opt for lobster and corn agnolotti if you want to try something more adventurous at Michael Schwartz’s new restaurant in Brickell, Fi’lia. Handout

Fi’lia: ⭐️⭐️⭐️ 1/2 (Excellent) 

If you think farm-to-table restaurant cooking is a relatively new concept, think again.

Michael Schwartz, who helped bring to Miami an emphasis on seasonal local ingredients 10 years ago with the opening of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, knows this from his days as a young cook watching the nonnas make pasta and other traditional Italian fare at his first outpost in Philadelphia.

Fi’lia tricked out a pair of table-side carts, which are wheeled around the restaurant so friendly fellows can put on a tightly choreographed show of making your Cesar salad to order. Handout

You don’t have to be a fan of “Tuscan Kitchen” to know that Italian fare is by its very nature farm-to-table, and that synchronicity is on display at Fi’lia, the newest gem in Schwartz’s jewel box.

The handsome space in the tutti-frutti confection that is Brickell’s new SLS Hotel is a showcase for Schwartz’s original passion, simple Italian cooking. It’s a place for palates both adventurous and risk-averse: You can build a meal of Caesar salad, margarita pizza and chicken Parmesan, or opt for lobster and corn agnolotti, fish paired with charred-bread salsa verde or olive oil cake. Both styles bear the quality you expect from Schwartz, from spaghetti cooked just right to perfect meatballs to gorgeous olive oil.

Fi’lia is a place for palates both adventurous and risk-averse: You can build a meal of Caesar salad, margarita pizza and chicken Parmesan, pictured here. Handout

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Read more: He watched the ‘nonnas’ cook, and that inspired this culinary salute to Italy

Fi’lia

1300 S. Miami Ave., in the SLS Hotel.

305-912-1729; sbe.com

 

 

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