Eating at this Brickell restaurant is a ‘mind-bending culinary playground’

Dishes such as the California Funnel Cake are part culinary, part art at Bazaar Mar. Handout

Bazaar Mar: ⭐️⭐️⭐️ (Very Good)

In the famous children’s book, “In the Night Kitchen,” by Maurice Sendak, a boy floats on a dreamy journey into a surreal kitchen where food takes on magical properties.

Bazaar Mar is that mind-bending culinary playground brought to life inside the base of the SLS luxury hotel in Brickell, where famed Spanish-American chef José Andrés shapeshifts food in a sea-inspired, psychedelic dining room designed by Philippe Starck.

Drama comes on a platter with a whole breaded and fried lion fish, its fan-like fins on full display.Handout

Steam clouds rise from cryogenic carts wheeled by servers concocting liquid nitrogen caipirinha cocktails tableside. As they whisk the drinks into sorbet-like consistency, smartphone flashes from photo-snapping, excited diners pierce the rolling fog, creating the illusion of a lightning storm inside the blue-and-white tiled dining room.

Food — most of it plucked from oceans around the world — is emulsified, squeezed, squirted, cured, chilled and mixed with chemical compounds until it resembles something swiped from another planet. Flavor is turned into powder, gels and foam, called “air” here. Even the margaritas come topped with ethereal puffs of salt and tequila. (Men with bushy beards beware.)

Hand-painted tiles depicting mermaids and other nautical motifs cover the walls at Bazaar Mar, creating the sensation of eating inside a decadent, drained pool.Handout

Read more here: Eating at this Brickell restaurant is a ‘mind-bending culinary playground’ 

Bazaar Mar

1300 S. Miami Ave., Miami (SLS Brickell hotel)

305-615-5859, www.sbe.com/restaurants/locations/bazaar-mar

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