Languorously paced and fine, fresh fare emblematic of Chinese family style dining are on display at Hakkasan, the Fontainebleau’s sexiest new restaurant. The London import is the creation of Michelin-starred Alan Yau, a Hong Kong native whose restaurants are known for exquisite food and a nightclubby vibe. Overseen by corporate executive chef Lee Che Liang, chef de cuisine Wen Ten Sian treats the quality ingredients with the delicate respect they deserve. And, yes, prices are high, ameliorated somewhat by abundant sharing options, from the most basic lemon chicken at $18 to the $195 Peking duck.
Hidden away on the fourth floor of the hotel, the gorgeous dining room is actually a maze of rooms divided by delicately carved teak screens that lend a seductive privacy. A clutch of pretty hostesses in hot pink Alexander McQueen dresses will help you find your way. Moody lighting conjures welcome images of the sea in a cavelike space that doesn’t offer a glimpse of water or sand. (A terrace dining room is due to open in the fall.)
- A signature fillet of roasted silver cod over tender stalks of gai lan (Chinese broccoli) in luscious honey and champagne sauces
- Tender red snapper with a slightly spicy soy-rich sauce
- Beef stir-fried with sesame seeds and black pepper
- Roasted pi pa duck served in bite-size slices with divinely crisped skin sumptuously lacquered in a mellow soy sauce
- The dim sum platter stocked with light, luscious steamed dumplings, including two with shrimp, one with chives and another bundle of slippery, musky wild mushrooms
- Divine seasonal Chinese greens, including gently wok-fried baby bok choy and snow pea shoots
- A platter of slender French green beans transformed by a sprinkle of tiny dried shrimp and preserved olives
- Wild mushroom hand-pulled noodles with finely diced vegetables
- Exceptional international wine choices, including a crisp $55 Greco di Tufo
- Luxurious iced jasmine tea laced with flowery sweetness.
- Fantastic coconut, grapefruit and passion fruit sobets
- Divinely tangy yogurt soup with fresh strawberries