Too many changes, too little to rave about at Grove’s La Gamba

The best thing the paella at La Gamba has going for it is that there’s plenty of it.

La Gamba: ⭐⭐ (OK)

There’s been a change in ownership, a change in staff, and most important, a change in the kitchen.

In short, when a neighborhood restaurant like Coconut Grove’s La Gamba makes changes this deep, it amounts to an entirely different restaurant.

Gone is Barcelona chef Agusti Comabella, who apprenticed for a time under Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, considered one of the world’s greats. Gone is the owner who attended Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and her son who managed it.

And gone, too, unfortunately, is the no se que that made this quiet Grove restaurant special over the last two years.

If you’re in the Grove and hankering for strictly Spanish food, La Gamba will scratch the itch — but not for long. A manager said the restaurant may be changing entirely in another six months to an “exciting new concept.” It better be. Because there are simply too many other good restaurants in the Grove these days not to keep driving past this one.

READ MORE in the Miami Herald: Too many changes, too little to rave about at Grove’s La Gamba

Miami Herald Food & Dining Editor Carlos Frías is on Twitter @Carlos_Frias. The Miami Herald Food page is @MiamiHeraldFood on Twitter and on Facebook at Facebook.com/MiamiHeraldFood.

Miami Herald critics dine anonymously at the newspaper’s expense.

For the latest restaurant inspection reports, visit dine.miami.com

La Gamba

3437 Main Hwy., Coconut Grove

786-464-0908; LaGambaRestaurant.com

 

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