Greek eatery Poseidon excels at grilled fish

The fresh fish at Poseidon Greek Restaurant are a natural fit in a location surrounded by turquoise water. The sea salt, olives, olive oil, feta, capers, brined caper leaves and wild oregano that adorn Poseidon’s fish, meats and salads are imported from Greece. Flavorful ripe tomatoes are sourced from a Homestead farmer.

Chef-owner Demetrios Pyliotis came to South Florida three years ago to join his brother Vasilis at Zesto Pizza on Collins Avenue in Miami Beach. The brothers grew up in Kalamata on the Peloponnese Peninsula near the village of Pylos where their grandfather is from (and where they got their surname). 

During military service in the Hellenic Army, Demetrios trained as a chef, cooking three meals a day for about 1,000 soldiers stationed around the Mediterranean. After moving here, he earned a culinary degree from Le Cordon Bleu in Miramar.

The brothers opened Poseidon in April 2013 at 11th Street and Washington Avenue in South Beach, naming it after the mythological god of the sea. 

Their fish is flown in after being caught in the Aegean Sea. Selections include lavraki (sea bass), sinagrida (red snapper) and tsipoura (gilthead bream). They’re simply grilled, boned by a server and served drizzled in a sauce of olive oil, lemon, capers and herbs, good with horta (wild chicory greens) to aid digestion. 

There’s also boneless leg of lamb with rice and farro pilaf, and moussaka with eggplant and mushrooms. Seafood risotto perfumed with krocus Kozanis (Greek saffron) is worth the wait — nibble on tiropita (cheese pie) or grape leaves in egg-lemon sauce until it arrives. Finish with warm, honey-soaked walnut baklava made by the Pyliotis’ mom.

Linda Bladholm is a Miami-based food writer.