The goods: It seems that for every eclectic, fusion-style restaurant that closes (RIP Cafe Tu Tu Tango) a new steakhouse pops up in its place. Apparently the mark-up on cow parts is recession-proof, so everyone is getting in on the deal. No exception is the Mayfair Hotel & Spa, with the opening of New York’s Angelo and Maxie’s Steakhouse.
Glide up the winding staircase to the second floor and you enter an open space shaped by the curves of the Mayfair’s architecture, forming several corners that are perfect for a romantic interlude away from the large groups with screaming babies. The floors are a rich red mahogany and all of the surrounding windows are covered with gorgeous Bahama shutters, creating an elegant, tropical mood. There’s also a long wooden chef’s table inside the wine tasting room for private affairs.
The grub: Steak, what else? The Roumanian is a tender skirt steak saturated in a tasty citrus marinade served coiled on the plate in a portion large enough to satisfy two (or more) beef lovers. The thick filet mignon is prepared au poivre or with a buttery bernaise sauce. Not too bad for the budget either, as none of the steak entrees will run you more than $30. The wine list is full of California reds all meant to pair nicely with the ten cuts of beef on the menu.
Doc told you to cut out the cow? Well, there’s a short list of items labeled “Not Meat.” Try the steamed Maine lobster or yellowfin tuna in soy glaze with braised seasonal greens. Of course, you can go for the raw bar with its Maine lobster cocktail or the cherrystone clams, but don’t overlook the appetizers. The carpaccio comes in paper thin slices with refreshing lemon oil sprinkled on top, shavings of Parmigiano and fresh arugula.
The verdict: Angelo and Maxie’s moved in swiftly to stake its claim in a town that can’t seem to get enough meat.
Angelo and Maxie’s Steakhouse, inside the Mayfair Hotel & Spa, 3000 Florida Ave., Coconut Grove. Dinner 5:30-11 p.m. nightly
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