First Look: Eos
By Sara Liss
The Goods: Just when you thought those cloud-skimming skyscrapers on Brickell had nothing to offer you comes a tony new restaurant with a Big Apple pedigree. The restaurant at the Viceroy Miami, a hotel that is part of the three-building Icon Brickell, is called Eos, which means “new dawn” in Greek. The duo behind this new venture is chef Michael Psilakis and his partner restaurateur Donatella Arpaia. The pair’s Manhattan restaurant Anthos is one of only two Greek restaurants in the world to be awarded a Michelin star.
Tucked away on the 15th floor of the Viceroy hotel, the restaurant is designed by Hollywood glamour girl Kelly Wearstler and exhibits her trademark flair for sumptuous materials and quirky colors. There’s a Deco futurism to the space, with hexagonal shelving at the bar and geometric patterns adorning hibiscus yellow chairs in addition to leather-studded banquettes. The overall effect is of a sexy, swanky supper club. Complimentary valet at the hotel is a nice touch.
The Grub: Greek-inspired small plates. The menu is a lengthy list of eclectic Mediterranean tapas priced at about $12-$18 which is definitely a nod to the current economy.
Though they are small plates, they pack a lot of pricey ingredients and intriguing combinations onto those petit portions. Start off with a sampling of “raw mezze” like the scallop with basil seeds and lemon puree and niaragi (striped marlin) given texture and contrast with pistachio, speck and apricot. Ceviches include a spicy black grouper with chipotle, mango, cumin and cilantro. Hot dishes provide heartier fare like the pecorino fonduta presented bubbling hot in a cast iron pan and sprinkled with hazelnuts and thyme honey and the smoked pork ribs seasoned with chili, coffee and lime. Pasta dishes include a papardelle with egg, black truffle and chives and a rich lobster risotto plated tableside with sea urchin roe, caviar and egg yolk. The salmon a la plancha is delicately presented with a Greek salad of feta, cherry tomatoes, olives and fennel.
Desserts like an “Essencia” of chocolate paired with sesame halva and lemon tea exhibit the chef’s penchant for old-world flavors.
Verdict: A lengthy list of creative tapas and a stylish supper club atmosphere make this restaurant a destination in downtown’s condo canyon.
Eos at the Viceroy Miami, 485 Brickell Ave, 305-503-0373; Open daily, 7 a.m. – Midnight, lunch Noon – 3 p.m., and dinner 6 p.m. – 11 p.m..