The goods: The Four Seasons has turned Acqua into Edge Steak and Bar, a glossy beef temple.
Ambience: Designed by AvoKo, the sprawling restaurant feels cozy and urbane with a large, rectangular, marble bar illuminated by exposed light bulbs, wood floors, whitewashed oak tables and off-white leather booths. The space is casually elegant but too bright – a few light dimmers would create a more lounge-like atmosphere.
The grub: Modern steakhouse cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced produce. Executive Chef Aaron Brooks (Four Seasons Boston) keeps the menu light and straightforward. Prices are reasonable given the swanky setting. Starters average $12 and mains are $16-$35 with $7 sides.
Dinner starts with small wire baskets of house-made potato chips dusted with Edge’s steak rub and a small cutting board of French rolls. Starters include corvina, beef, scallop and ahi tuna tartare; an Edge Caesar accompanied by a lightly battered, barely fried egg and plump anchovies; a corn soup dressed with lobster and tarragon; crispy pork belly accompanied by sweet corn puree and wahoo tiradito bathed in saffron vinaigrette.
Steaks, from Nebraska’s Creekstone Farms, include the 6-ounce Boston cut prime strip, the 7-ounce butcher’s cut filet, the 14-ounce cowgirl chop (pictured) and a 24-ounce tomahawk. Non-beef options include basil-crusted corvina, pan-seared La Belle Farms duck and a Tanglewood Farms chicken with corn cake and green onion puree. Sides include a quinoa and roasted corn salad and roasted asparagus.
Desserts are kept simple with cheesecake lollipops ($2), slices of chocolate Napoleon layer cake and fried beignets with cappuccino foam.
Verdict: a bright, modern steakhouse at the Four Seasons for those looking for a lighter hand when it comes to beef and sides.