By Linda Bladholm
Ownership of Hollywood’s Coral Rose Café has changed three times in 20 years, and the current owners, Jack and Lidiya Umansky, are originally from Ukraine. They operated a gas station and Russian nightclub in Philadelphia for two decades before relocating to South Florida six years ago. The Umanskys kept the menu and long-time staffer Theresa Low, who does all the baking. Soon after you’re seated, you can expect a complimentary basket of her whole wheat and fruit bread with a jar of house-made jam.
The two-egg specials with home fries and choice of sausage, bacon, pancakes or toast won’t set you back more than $4. (Coffee is extra.) There’s a quiche of the day plus create-your-own eggs Benedict with options like smoked salmon, portobello mushroom, seafood or spinach. Or try the buttermilk pancakes embedded with pecans or fresh apple slices; strawberry waffles; thick, eggy French toast encrusted with coconut shreds or crushed pistachios; granola and yogurt; fresh-baked cinnamon rolls or huevos rancheros with chorizo.
One of the most interesting omelets is the tabbouleh, enfolding cracked wheat, fresh herbs, onion and diced tomato. The Kaplan, named for a former customer, has spinach and good-quality feta. The fajita omelet has grilled chicken strips with peppers, onions and sour cream. All are big enough to share unless your appetite is huge.
Lunch specials might include a monster chicken burger with potatoes or salad, an eight-ounce steak with mashed potatoes and gravy, grilled tilapia fillet with brown rice or a
vegetarian wrap with hummus and sprouts. There’s no sushi or cutting edge fusion fare here, just Paul Bunyan-sized breakfasts and good home-cooked food in a pleasant spot that marches along to its own quaint beat.
Coral Rose Café, 1840 Harrison St., Hollywood; 954-925-4414; 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Mon-Fri, 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat & Sun; breakfast (until 11 a.m.); $2.99-$12.50, lunch $3.25-$9.99
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