Devon Seafood + Steak brings classics to Kendall

The goods: Devon Seafood + Steak brings classics to Kendall.

Ambience: Situated in the Palms at Town & Country mall, the sprawling space is awash in reclaimed wood and brown leather and boasts a private dining room, an intimate wine cellar, a granite bar and outdoor seating.

The grub: Modern American cooking with a seafood focus. Prices are reasonable and portions generous: Starters average $10 and mains range from $19 $to 45.

Start with warm biscuits with whipped honey butter then move onto mini New England lobster rolls with Old Bay spiced fries, roasted duck flatbread, jumbo lump crab cakes with Creole rémoulade, shrimp and grits with bacon and velvety lobster bisque served tableside.

Mains include scallops with champagne risotto, Char-crusted Hawaiian ahi tuna with Parmesan-herb roasted potatoes, pretzel-crusted trout and beef from Florida’s Jackman Wagyu Beef Ranch. Pair with sides like cauliflower with onion and bacon jam, lobster mac and cheese and Brussels sprouts with pancetta. Desserts include carrot cake, key lime pie and molten chocolate cake.

Verdict: It may be in Kendall, but this seafood house has plenty of urbane touches.