Crust brings pizza and late-night delivery to the Miami River

The Who: Chef Klime Kovaceski, who helmed Miami Beach’s Crystal Café for many years (and was most recently at Trio on the Bay) goes casual with this pizza joint. Wife and partner Anita runs front of the house.

The Space: A former paint store on the Miami River with a dining room outfitted in dark wood tables, antique mirrors and an extra-wide wooden bar top for accommodating those pies. An outdoor patio overlooking the Miami River is in the works.

The Dishes: Italian classics with Mediterranean influences throughout. The epic menu comprises starters, sandwiches, pastas and risottos, signature dishes and of course pizzas. Prices are reasonable and portions are generous with starters $8-$12, pizzas $10-$17 and mains $15-$20.

Garlic knots are served warm and drenched in olive oil and fresh garlic. The Mediterranean trio brings a platter arrayed with taztiki dip, roasted pepper spread and humus and toasted pita. Pizza’s come in three sizes (10-inch, 14-inch or 16-inch) and include a “Crust” pie with fig, pancetta and blue cheese while the Mediterranean is topped with kalamata olives, sun dried tomatoes and feta. Over 40 topping choices run the gamut from chorizo, grilled octopus to candied walnuts. The grill serves up skewers of beef, shrimp and marinated chicken that come with a variety of sides like Israeli couscous and leek risotto. Mains include a slab of pecan-crusted trout, grilled butcher steak with truffle fries and lamb chops with an apricot chutney.

An off the menu dessert is the nutella pizza topped with strawberries. Other sweets include key lime pie, fresh berries sabayon and palicinka, a soft crepe stuffed with berries and nuts.

Bottom Line: A fine dining chef tackles fast-casual pizza in a homey Miami River spot.